ETA 2893-2 automatic movement, testing and debugging in 4 different directions, 42-hour power reserve, 24 time zone display, polished stainless steel case, anti-glare sapphire mirror, and the world back is engraved Notes, black dial, central second hand, polished stainless steel hour and minute hands, central 24-hour world time bezel, date window display at 6 o’clock, water resistance to 50 meters
Inspired by the violin’s Mido Berencelli series, its unique way to show practical world time functions. The ‘Hong Kong’ usually used in this watch’s city bezel is replaced by ‘Beijing’. What’s more wonderful is that instead of ‘setting’ the city separately, this watch will represent all 24 cities in 24 time zones around the world. It is displayed on the small dial in the center. In this case, find the number corresponding to your city, which is the local time.
ETA 2893-2 automatic movement, testing and debugging in 4 different directions, 42-hour power reserve, 24 time zone display, polished stainless steel case, anti-glare sapphire mirror, and the world back is engraved Notes, black dial, central second hand, polished stainless steel hour and minute hands, central 24-hour world time bezel, date window display at 6 o’clock, water resistance to 50 meters
Extreme Taste Evolves Again: Casio G-shock Master Of G Series Powerful Red And Black New Color Design, Comprehensive Control Of The Land And Sea Air
The CASIO G-SHOCK born for toughness continues to challenge the limits and conquer the world comprehensively. The MASTER OF G series has been created with the three main spindles of MUDMASTER, GULFMASTER and GRAVITYMASTER. Based on the powerful impact-resistant structure, plus the third-generation three major sensors, GPS radio wave receiving system, dust-proof and mud-resistant structure, Triple G Resist anti-shock, anti-centrifugal and anti-vibration structure, tide information and other unique features, Create a functional watch that meets the needs of various extreme environments.
Whether it’s conquering the harsh onshore environment, breaking through the waves, turning into an angry sea warrior, or challenging the extreme time and space of the skyline, the G-SHOCKMASTEROFG series allows outdoor adventure enthusiasts to conveniently operate various functions in various harsh environments and accurately grasp the dynamic Environmental information, comprehensively conquer land, sea and air, and expand a broader horizon of adventure.
G-SHOCK MASTER OF G series, launched in the spring and summer of 2016. It is a powerful new color design with cool black collision limit red. Combined with the black case design, the dial is decorated with jumping hands, and the eye-catching red rubber strap is not only added. The fashionable and handsome style of the watch models will lead the trend of red and black contrasting taste. Among them, the MUDMASTER GWG-1000 series is designed to magnify the three-dimensional hour of 12, 3, 6, and 9 with the black bezel and large crown. The GULFMASTER GWN-1000 series models have a black and red contrast. In particular, the bright blue embellishment of the bezel is used to change the pressure value of the bezel, which also sets off the marine fashion. The GRAVITYMASTER GPW-1000 series uses a calm black design, embellishing red and blue in the city code and other surface details. Exhibit the essence of toughness, and fully show the powerful charm!
MUDMASTER GWG-1000 dual mud-proof structure Equipped with three third-generation three sensors Powerful black red fashion style Challenges various extreme environments on land
The MUDMASTER series has a dual mud-proof and dust-proof structure, and the buttons have a special air-tight design with mud-proof gaskets and sleeves to prevent fine dust and dirt from invading and alleviate vibration and shock. The crown is protected by a high air-tight anti-falling screw lock, ensuring a 360 ° seamless gap between the crown and the case, so that the movement is not affected by sand. The third-generation three-sensor Triple Sensor Version 3 equipped with innovative technology reduces the module by 95% and reduces power consumption by 10%, and simultaneously increases the accuracy and speed of azimuth compass measurement, allowing land explorers to change in the rapidly changing nature. In the environment, the three major indicators of bearing, altitude / barometric pressure, and temperature can be grasped more quickly, lastingly, and accurately, conquering all severe onshore environments.
CASIO G-SHOCK GWG-1000RD ?, expected to be available in May
The GWG-1000RD-4A model magnifies the three-dimensional hour at 12, 3, 6, and 9, and reflects the city code ring and surface details plated with blue light. It is matched with the dark black case, crown and large size. The buttons and eye-catching red rubber strap are even more powerful. The dial incorporates dual LED lighting and luminous paint scales, and simultaneously illuminates the hands and the digital LCD display. The intimate design of the hands automatically hides the function. When using the orientation, altitude / barometric pressure and temperature measurement functions, the hands will automatically avoid the LCD area below To improve the convenience of reading information. Convenient non-slip large buttons and solar power that can be converted into electrical energy with only a weak light source allow outdoor adventure lovers to conveniently operate various functions in various harsh environments and accurately grasp dynamic environmental information.
GULFMASTER GWN-1000 tide information Combined with three sensors of the third generation Black, red and blue embellish classic elements of the sea
The GULFMASTER series combines an impact-resistant structure, 200 meters of water resistance and an existing sport style. It is equipped with the third-generation three sensors and uses CASIO’s world-leading technology “Smart Access” intuitive operating system. 10%, effectively reducing the measurement unit, not only can easily drive multiple functional operations, allowing marine explorers to more quickly and accurately measure bearing, temperature, pressure / altitude, and tide and moon age information display functions to easily grasp walrus information.
GWN-1000RD-4A, expected to be available in May
G-SHOCK GWN-1000RD-4A series models, the bezel and dial are designed in black, in order to facilitate reading of various information, eye-catching red is used to embellish the second hand. The rubber strap is more marine style. Using large LCD liquid crystal display, two sets of independent LED high-brightness illumination illuminate the pointer dial and digital liquid crystal display respectively, enhancing the clarity of information and the comfort of reading. When using the functions of orientation, altitude, air pressure and temperature measurement, the pointer automatically avoids the LCD area below, which makes it clearer when reading various information. In addition, in combination with the innovative strap joining structure, the strap is directly joined to the case, making the strap strong and not easy to fall off, and the curved arc of the wrist that fits comfortably to the wrist, leading adventurers to compete in various marine sports.
GRAVITYMASTER GPW-1000 original GPS satellite hybrid radio wave receiving system Shock resistance, anti-centrifugal force and anti-vibration structure
CASIO’s original GPS satellite hybrid radio wave receiving system can not only automatically receive the standard time signals transmitted by China, North America, Japan, the United Kingdom, and Germany. When the watch cannot receive the standard radio wave signals, press the function key for 3 seconds easily. Through the original GPS The calculation system and satellite signal receive the location and time information, and the automatic adjustment makes the information such as time zone and daylight saving time more accurate. In cooperation with Sony Corporation, a low-power GPS receiving chip tailor-made, equipped with a light-shielding dispersive solar panel that can improve the efficiency of light generation, complements the low-power radio wave reception, greatly reducing the power consumption of the watch, allowing you to travel the world accurately There is no limit to timing! TRIPEL G RESIST is resistant to impact, centrifugal force and vibration. The case frame is combined with the strong structural design of reinforced rubber (Fine Resin), which increases the impact resistance and shock absorption capacity, and is easy to use in various severe environments.
GPW-1000RD-4A, expected to be available in May
The new GPW-1000RD-4A uses a calm black case design, embellished with dazzling blue and red on city code rings, hands and other surface details, and equipped with a jumping red strap, showing the classic air fashion charm. The watch eye at three o’clock is decorated with the earth pattern and can display the current latitude position. The watch eye at eight o’clock can also display the time in the second time zone, allowing users to easily grasp the world time information. The DLC-treated stainless steel case increases its metallic luster and abrasion resistance. The sapphire surface and carbon fiber strap are more durable. The large forged side button design requires only a single pressure switch to quickly grasp the precise moment.
The retro shape design makes people miss the ancient pocket watch. The aristocratic temperament can be matched with various dresses and occasions. The more traditional the design is, the more durable it is. Longines has traditionally made 175 years of watchmaking into a replica watch.
This watch has a strong nostalgic temperament, blue Breguet hands, retro numerals on the surface with minute scales, hour and minute hands with a small 6 o’clock second dial, a delicate groove with square lugs, every detail All exude elegance that is exclusive to Baume & Mercier. The dark brown crocodile leather strap has an extraordinary texture, which deepens the classic temperament of this rose gold watch. The transparent case back allows you to see the precise movements of the automatic movement.
① Retro appearance, reasonable price, smart choice for daily wear.
② There are also female models of the same series, suitable for couples or lovers of similar taste.
Recently, Glashütte, the world’s largest watch manufacturer and top luxury brand under the Swiss Swatch Group, officially opened in Shanghai Xintiandi, opening China’s second and Shanghai’s first direct-selling specialty store.
Xintiandi, Shanghai’s bustling metropolis’s luxury landmark place, cutting-edge fashion meets and merges here, and Glashütte’s shops are quietly located here. The heavy stone kumen door is carved with delicate patterns, and the hollow movement pattern on the floor-to-ceiling windows makes the store bright and transparent while also having a wonderful sense of creativity. With the architectural design of the garden house, it perfectly perfects the atmosphere of the traditional old Shanghai. Integrates with the brand’s German cultural temperament.
Upon entering the store, at first glance you will see the huge Glashütte dial engraved on the mahogany wall. In the warm atmosphere outlined by bright yellow lights and off-white sofas, various Glashütte top-level limited edition watches quietly Lie in the glass showcase waiting for the gaze of the connoisseurs.
Explore the Glashütte Store for yourself:
No. 1 Taicang Road, Luwan District, Shanghai
The RADO DiaMaster DiaMaster series large seconds hand watch won the prestigious 2015 Good Design Award, which is the icing on the cake of the award-winning Swiss radar.
The RADO DiaMaster DiaMaster large seconds watch is a unique classic gentleman-style watch: the dial has two overlapping sub-dials, one displaying the hours and minutes and the other displaying the seconds. The striking 43mm dial and luxuriously textured embossed leather strap fasten the classic style to the wrist.
The RADO DiaMaster DiaMaster series large seconds watch not only has an outstanding appearance, but also highlights the Swiss Radar’s control of the material. The case of the DiaMaster large seconds watch is made of the Swiss radar’s signature high-tech plasma high-tech ceramic, which was first used in Swiss watchmaking.
During the plasma process of RADO high-tech ceramics, the white ceramic parts that have been formed are placed in a special plasma furnace. The gas with a temperature of up to 20,000 ° C changes the molecular structure of the surface of the material and emits its surface. Unique metallic luster. In this cutting-edge technology, the shiny Rado Swiss radar watch retains all the advantages of high-tech ceramic materials-not easy to wear, light, and hypoallergenic. The dazzling plasma case surrounds the chic large dial of the DiaMaster series, which not only makes the watch itself, but also the wearer’s unique temperament.
Following RADO’s HyperChrome series of high-tech ceramic dual-time-zone touch-sensitive watches that won three consecutive awards in 2014, the 2015 Good Design Award is the fourth design award recently won by Swiss Rado.
RADO is a world-renowned watch brand, known for its innovative design and revolutionary use of materials, designed to create watches that are not easy to wear. From the beginning of its establishment in Linno, Switzerland, Rado has always been a pioneering spirit. Today, it still adheres to the brand philosophy of ‘if you can imagine, you can create;
The focus on design is an indispensable factor for the success of RADO. The unique industrial design of the brand has been recognized by more than 30 international awards. Swiss radar has always focused on the design of the product and its non-wearing characteristics, and is committed to using a revolutionary material that is different to create a watch that shines forever.
About the Good Design Award
The Good Design Award is a prestigious long-term annual design award, organized by the Chicago Athena Museum of Architecture and Design in collaboration with the European Center for Architecture, Art, and Urban Studies. This iconic award was made in 1950 by renowned architects Eero Saarinen, Charles and Ray Eames, and Edgar Kaufmann, Jr. .) Founded in Chicago. The Good Design Award covers newly designed and manufactured consumer products in Europe, Asia, North and South America.
Nowadays the trend of watches is more and more tend to go tough curve. Not only men can wear it, but women can also harden to the end. Women can also become tough and brave except for the softness, and be a tough and flexible woman.
Franck Muller GIGA Tourbillon Ten Day Chain Tourbillon
This is a neutral watch. Just as the name of the watch GIGA, this tourbillon watch is equipped with the largest tourbillon mechanism currently installed in the watch, with a diameter of up to 2 cm, accounting for half of the entire watch. The area and atmosphere design with the FM tourbillon frame, when the watch is in operation, you can clearly see the huge flying tourbillon circling the watch, bringing an amazing visual impact.
Hublot Fruit Collection Pavé Tourbillon
This internally created watch uses a movement with 153 parts. The flying tourbillon is clearly visible from the side of the dial. All parts are produced entirely by the Hublot factory. There is no doubt that it will inspire the connoisseur’s eagerness to possess. The diamond and gemstone-encrusted watch is elegant and fashionable, and it is matched with carefully-adjusted trend colors: turquoise, orange yellow, tender powder, iron blue, dark chocolate brown, and camel. One of the pure white watches uses pavé technology, set with 621 diamonds totaling 3.82 carats, shining brilliantly. As a perfect fusion of watchmaking craftsmanship and extremely feminine style.
A / X white round dial classic reveals youthfulness
Focus on the trendy chic trend inspiration and highlight the A / X graphic mark, which is very fashionable and urban. Stainless steel material is used, some parts are made of standard steel, others are gold-plated, and wristband-type straps have different shapes, materials and textures. Enamel and acetate make this series of design details extremely perfect, reflecting the perfect combination of metal and leather, and the watch case, bracelet, and needles are sometimes decorated with shiny crystals. Black and white, steel and gold are the absolute definitions of this series of colors, while the clever A / X marking application creates a distinctive iconic look. The women’s hands have extremely simple hands that complement the bold style on the bracelet and strap.
Freelancer Urban Black is the first Freelancer model of Raymond Weil with PVD coating process, as the ‘Freelancer’ (Freelancer) The word ‘Knight’ heralds Raymond Weil, one of the few independent watchmaking companies in Switzerland today.
The Freelancer series has been advancing with the times and innovating for many years. This series of watches is very attractive, the angled lugs are very characteristic, and the screws used are quite original. This series of new chronographs uses black PVD coating for the first time on a 42mm case, and its black opal dial is extremely dazzling.
The transparent bottom cover of the new chronograph clearly brings to us the dynamic beauty of the built-in RW5000 automatic movement. The power reserve can reach 46 hours. The automatic rotor of the movement is also decorated in black. In addition, the watch’s folding buckle is also treated with PVD coating, masculine and tough, and forms a strong contrast with the softness and warmth of the matte black leather strap.
The 2011 CASIO new product launch conference was grandly held in Guangzhou, with major agents and multiple media from across the country attending, and the scene was lively. At the press conference of new products, CASIO introduced new models such as G-SHOCK’s new Mudman, Baby-G’s new BGA-130, and EDIFICE’s new EQW-A1000DB. The new technology and new ideas were well received by the audience . The latest models displayed by the six major brands of Casio Watches reinterpret their different and dynamic styles: the tough “G-SHOCK” series is led by the maverick Huang Lixing, and the rebellious little European and American queen KA ＄ HA The ‘Baby-G’ series that matches different personalities, the intellectual freshness of Guilun Magnesium perfectly matches ‘SHEEN’, the aggressive ‘EDIFICE’, the adventurous ‘PROTREK’, and the elegant and excellent ‘OCEANUS’. Numerous amazing works caused discussions among the audience and expressed their appreciation for CASIO watches this year. (CASIO 6 major sub-brands each displayed the latest models this year, each with its own characteristics.)
CASIO has always won the love of watch fans with original electronic technology and trendy fashion design. This year, CASIO is making innovations, like the slogan ‘Inspiration Creates the Future,’ and combines the latest technology with aesthetic design and intelligent technology Together, create the most fashionable and powerful CASIO watch. This year’s CASIO, in addition to the technology of the 6 leading radio waves in the past, has also shaped the 5-motor independent drive system in a new way, achieving a higher level of humanized operation. New electronic control technology allows intuitive control of various functions. The magnetic sensor is embedded in the crown of the watch. By simply pushing, pulling, and turning the crown, you can easily complete the operation and switching of various watch functions. In terms of CASIO’s advanced backlight system, the ultra-high-brightness LED system improves the resolution of the surface, ensuring that it can clearly display in the dark and bring the most ideal illumination. There is also a luminous lighting system. When you touch the illuminated button, the LED emits ultraviolet light. The scale coated with fluorescent coating, the hour hand and minute hand only need to be exposed to light for a short time, and they can keep emitting light for a long time.
(G-SHOCK exhibition area exhibits the spirit of ‘Absolutely Toughness’, and also echoes G-SHOCK’s powerful sports functions.) (GW-9300 shock-proof / dust-proof and mud-proof structure / 200 meters waterproof / 6 radio wave reception)
At the conference, the most eye-catching men’s watch is G-SHOCK’s new Mudman GW-9300. The new GW-9300 has redesigned an important key protection device protected by resin. While resisting the erosion of sand, dirt, dust, etc., it also improves the convenience of functional operation and maximizes its dust and mud protection capabilities. The watch incorporates a new dual sensor, which can measure compass direction and temperature, and uses anti-magnetic 64-bit titanium alloy and SUS316L corrosion-resistant stainless steel to avoid measurement errors. (EQW-A1000DB 6-station radio wave receiver / solar drive / 5 independent motor drive)
The favorite EDIFICE for business people is EQW-A1000DB, which is the most eye-catching. Its unique double-layer dial design, combined with dynamic pointer action, has a clear layer, which fully reflects the extraordinary dynamics of racing and speed. The innovative intelligent operation system of the pointer watch, through the independent drive of 5 motors, allows each pointer to operate independently, thereby improving the convenience of operation. A sensor-embedded crown can actuate the pointer independently, or act as a button in combination with other buttons to achieve composite function operation. Each function mode can be easily switched, making the watch operation simpler and more sensitive.
(SHE-5512 sapphire glass mirror / stopwatch / off-site time / 50 meters waterproof)
And SHEEN, the favorite of white-collar women, has launched the new SHE-5512, which uses a high-quality ceramic bezel and a white dial decorated with golden meteors. . The three-dimensional cut surface of the scale is engraved with the shining light of time, reminiscent of the vast galaxy in the bright night sky. The bezel embellished with Swarovski crystals is graceful and shiny. The white decorative buttons and crown make the watch exude elegance.
After the summer vacation last year, IWC launched a sophisticated watch called the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia. It was successively released at the Torrena Observatory in Chile and the birthplace of this special watch in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. This watch is an important milestone in the development of IWC, marking the official entry of IWC into the ranks of astronomical watches capable of displaying the sky map. This watch not only has a lot of wonderful functions such as the stellar time, sunrise and sunset time and constant force tourbillon.
Since the Big Bang, the universe has been expanding at an alarming rate. But from the perspective of the earth, the familiar constellation has never changed from generation to generation. Many planets may be several light years or thousands of light years apart, but for us, the stars in the sky have always dotted the night sky and are constantly spinning on this large dome. Although we now know that the earth is actually spinning, it seems easier and more intuitive to imagine the stars spinning. Since the rotation axis of the earth passes through the two poles, if you are patient enough, you can observe the stars in the sky around the head to rotate a little counterclockwise at the North Pole. At this point, the North Star is stationary, and the farther the star is from the North Star, the longer the orbit.
Plane starry sky
The sky map displayed on the plane is likely to cause a certain degree of distortion, so when you do not have an iPhone at hand, a starry sky rotating map can effectively help you identify stars. Planar celestial maps (projecting a hemisphere onto a plane) are an old trick. As early as the 16th century, Arab scientists invented the rotatable star chart of the famous brass astrolabe, which can determine the night time by the position of the star.
When observing the night sky outdoors, you are actually in the center of a certain range formed by the horizontal lines where the stars rise and fall. On a flat celestial figure, the horizontal line is represented by an ellipse carved on a transparent disc, and below the disc is a rotatable celestial disc. As the celestial disk rotates, the stars rise from the horizontal line on the east and fall on the horizontal line on the west.
Stellar time is a measurement method used by navigators to determine time based on the height of stars. It is more constant than solar time, because the measurement is based on the actual time it takes for the earth to rotate 360 ° around an infinite point in space, the vernal equinox.
Time measurement based on spatial infinity
Stellar time is a measurement method used by navigators to determine time based on the height of stars. It is more constant than solar time because it is measured based on the actual time it takes for the earth to rotate 360 ° around the point of infinity in the space around the vernal equinox. Stellar days are about four minutes shorter than the average solar day. Similar to solar time, stellar time is endemic. In stellar time, noon is when the vernal equinox is directly above the local meridian.
The introduction of the astrolabe in Europe prompted the design of clocks to innovate new functions to display the position of celestial bodies. The most famous of these inventions is the astrarium invented by Giovanni Dondi in the 14th century. Although the original clocks have been lost, replicas have been made from the original notes and drawings, one of which was exhibited at the International Clock Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds. In addition to the astrolabe, this timepiece is also equipped with five clock faces showing the orbit of the planet centered on the earth. Towers and church bells are also equipped with astrolabes, notable examples of which include bells on the Prague City Hall, Bern’s Zytglogge, and the Strasbourg Cathedral clock.
Collectors race to own celestial watches
Watches equipped with celestial figures first appeared in the 20th century, and wealthy Americans scrambled to own the most sophisticated Swiss watches. The entrepreneur James Ward Packard asked Swiss watch brand Patek Philippe to design a pocket watch for him that showed the night sky in his hometown of Ohio. Another famous example comparable to this is the Graves watch belonging to the New York financier Henry Graves Jr in 1933. This watch is equipped with 24 complex timekeeping functions. In 1989, the 150th Anniversary Calibre 89 designed by Patek Philippe surpassed the complexity of Graves. Calibre 89 has 33 complex features, including its ability to truly depict the northern sky in the northern hemisphere. In 2000, the company continued to launch the Star Calibre pocket watch with 21 complex functions. This pocket watch has a rotating celestial map that can display the moon position and profit and loss. This process has also been applied to Patek Philippe’s most complicated watch, Sky Moon. Tourbillon, and later Celestial watches can fully display the entire night sky.
Let’s take a look at the current celestial watches, starting with the oldest astrolabe watch:
Astrolabe Galileo Galilei by Ulysse Nardin
This outstanding watch is one of the trilogy of Ulysse Nardin astronomical timepieces in 1985. For the first time, the function of a large tower clock like Zytglogge was introduced into the watch. Ludwig Oechslin’s design not only brings people a beautiful starry sky, it is also said to be the most accurate. This watch can display the stellar time and the average solar time, but only high-brightness stars. The designer uses the traditional astrolabe style. The sky and sun hands on the dial rotate clockwise. The sun hands represent the day time and the specific position of the sun on the ecliptic. The moon hands represent the moon position and profit and loss. The Tianlong hands show the moon’s intersection and intersection The ecliptic noodles pass every 18.6 years, indicating a solar and lunar eclipse.
CK Astrolabium CKAL7766 by Christiaan van der Klaauw
As a member of the AHCI (Arts and Humanities Citation Index), Van der Klaauw lives in the Netherlands, designs clocks independently and is unique in astronomical functions. The astronomical watch on his astrolabe shows the positions of the brightest stars, the sun, the moon and the intersection of the moon. Under the hands and stars are ancient patterns of the astrolabe, showing people the vast night sky.
Vacheron Constantin’s Tour de l’ Ile
This watch is ranked as the most complicated watch, and the oval bezel on the dial shows people the bright starry sky of Geneva. Although there is no function to display the stellar time, it can display the time difference between the solar time and the mean time. Other complicated functions include dual time zone display, moon age and profit and loss, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, tourbillon, sunrise and sunset time, and power reserve display.
Patek Philippe ref. 5102PR Celestial
This elegant automatic watch can display the night sky of the northern hemisphere. This technology is derived from the design of Star Calibre and Sky Moon Tourbillon. The starry sky on the dial rotates counterclockwise, and the oval bezel representing the horizon shows the Geneva and same latitude regions Night sky. Although the speed of the moon and stars in the sky is different, its position on the dial can accurately reflect its position in the sky. A hidden device can also display the moon’s profit and loss. The two arrows on the dial indicate the positions of Sirius and the moon, respectively. By adjusting the arrows, you can set the readings of the moon and the stars.
Van Cleef & Arpels
This elegant and noble watch bears the same name as a Van Cleef & Arpels perfume, displaying a bright night sky with emeralds embellishment throughout the dial. The elliptical bezel shows the positions of the stars in the night sky of Paris. The astrolabe only rotates once a year, so the stars on the astrolabe are only at the position where they really belong at midnight of the day.
Officine Panerai’s L’ Astronomo Luminor 1950
Panerai released the most complex watch in the International Year of Astronomy in 2009-L’ Astronomo Luminor 1950. The night sky on the back of the watch rotates counterclockwise, and the elliptical bezel made of frosted glass displays the starry sky at a specific latitude. The specific position can be set by the user.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition
This masterpiece by Le Sentier is in the same style as the Sky Moon Tourbillon. The astronomical function of the watch is accurate and reliable, but its outstanding appearance is equally striking. The rotating tourbillon on the side of the dial controls the rotation of a part of the starry sky. This rotating structure is set on the vernal equinox and rotates counterclockwise with the star to display the star time on a 24-hour basis. The Sun combines them in a subtle way, rotating on a transparent disk in a 24-hour stellar system. Consistent with actual operation, the sun rotates counterclockwise around the North Star, but is about 1 degree / day slower than the star. Therefore, the zodiac calendar showing the date will catch up with the rotation speed of the sun. The sun should be driven by a perimeter wheel, otherwise its rotation will conflict with the tourbillon. Other complication features include a flying tourbillon, a silicon escape wheel and a minute repeater.
IWC’s Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia
The main complication of the tourbillon watch is the stellar hour display. The stellar hour of this watch is collectively displayed on the small 24-hour clock face in hours and minutes. However, the essence of this watch is the star map behind the watch. The 500 stars are connected to form a variety of constellation night sky. The stars rotate around the polar axis on each star day. The polarization filter changes the sky color of the celestial map at dawn and dusk every day. In addition, IWC also designed the Southern Hemisphere star map for customers in the Southern Hemisphere. New programs written by astrophysicist Ben Moore can adapt astronomical maps to everyone’s needs, so users living near the equator can see the most accurate and clear night sky in their hometown.
The hands on this astral chart indicate the star’s direction as opposed to the 24-hour clock. It is difficult to understand why the sun hand is rotated clockwise, which requires a separate time scale. If the same design as the Jaeger-LeCoultre watch is used, the sun hour hand rotates in the same direction as the star, then the sun hour hand can display the date, so that the ecliptic designed by Moore for the star chart makes sense. Nevertheless, IWC engineers have incorporated another practical astronomical feature-sunrise and sunset time, which also appears in different designs in watches designed by Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. These two times are indicated by two small red arrows pointing to the outer scale, and the cam of the pointer needs to be cut and installed according to customer needs.
Other complication features include a constant tourbillon, sunrise and sunset times, and a perpetual calendar that shows the number of days in the year, not just the date.
On July 12th, Douyin launched an account called ‘The Picture of Beautiful Life’. From 12th to 23rd, every day at 0 o’clock, a Chanel video will be launched. That’s right, it is Chanel-showing the beautiful 12 hours of J12 watch through 12 videos. Users can jump directly from Chanel’s official website from Douyin. The collaboration between Chanel and Douyin is really surprising. J12 is a series with a wide range of audiences in Chanel watches. ‘Approaching young people through vibrato’ is logical, but the public may think that this cooperation represents the entire brand. Should we cater to young people? Chanel may be more tangled than other luxury brands, which is related to the annual performance and whether it can maintain its position as an industry leader. /// Over the past two years, overseas media have reported certain financial data of Chanel. In 2016, Chanel disclosed its 2015 results in the Netherlands, with a turnover of more than 6.2 billion U.S. dollars, a decrease of 17%; the next year, still in the Netherlands, Chanel reported an annual revenue of nearly 5.7 billion U.S. dollars, a decline of 9%, and its profits also fell. Chanel is not a listed company and has no obligation to disclose any financial data to the public. Its owner, the Wertheimer family, has always been low-key, hiding in the dark as much as possible. When the media reported the two billionaires, it was even hard to find the right photos of them related to Chanel. Chanel’s outflow of data in the Netherlands may be due to market rules triggering certain regulatory requirements. But it is not clear to the outside world whether this billion-dollar sales is Chanel’s entire plate or just a part of its business. But this has sparked debate. For example: Is Lafayette old? Is Chanel’s work innovative? Does Chanel’s total income depend too much on perfume? Does Chanel rely too much on the founders’ classics? In Paris, the news that Chanel might be acquired is even more subtle. Something unexpected happened this year. Last month, Chanel announced its 2017 financial data to the outside world through overseas media: sales exceeded 9.6 billion US dollars, an increase of 11%, while operating profit reached nearly 2.7 billion US dollars, with cash flow of more than 1.6 billion, almost Debt. sparkling. We tried to find the complete financial report of Chanel, but whether we searched it from various official channels ourselves or asked the industry experts who are familiar with overseas capital markets, we found nothing. We inquired through the message channel of Chanel’s official website and did not get a reply. It seems that Chanel’s disclosure this time is not the detailed financial report of a listed company, but a small number of major data to specific media. /// Chanel ‘publishes financial data for the first time in 108 years’, what made them break the silence? The more mainstream view of the fashion industry is that Chanel is expressing these layers of meanings: 1. Chanel is operating very well, with higher sales than Gucci, which is comparable to LV, and is still a luxury industry leader. 2. Chanel’s performance is growing, and there is no pressure to be forced to sell because of operating difficulties. 3. Chanel’s owner, the Wertheimer brothers, is still full of energy and will continue to run Chanel, although he is almost seventies; creative directors who are over 80 years old will not retire. To continue our discussion, we need to answer the question: Chanel is not a listed company and is not subject to the rules of listed companies. Is this ‘media data’ trustworthy? LVMH, Kering, and Hermes are listed companies. Can Chanel and these rivals compare their data together? We consulted several industry observers via email. Francis Gouten, who lives in Hong Kong, was a senior executive of Richemont’s Asia Pacific region and currently runs his own luxury industry consulting firm. He replied to us that the data given by Chanel CFO is trustworthy. Dana Thomas, author of How Luxury Lost It’s Luster, which is widely acclaimed in the industry, also responded to our email. She also believes that the data of Chanel is true and reliable. There are also different views. ‘Forbes’ contributor Pamela N. Danziger commented in his column that Chanel counted the asset income from the sale of its subsidiaries in the 2017 results, and the actual product sales were not so good. Please allow us to set aside the question ‘Is the data comparable?’ And continue to study the reasons why Chanel actively sent data. In recent years, Gucci has been very high-profile and has publicly vowed to be the boss of the industry. Gucci celebrates selling more than Hermès and celebrates approaching the LV scale-not mentioning Chanel every time. After Alessandro Michele became the creative director of Gucci in 2015, he opened a money printing machine for Kering, and Gucci’s performance increased by more than 35% for 5 consecutive quarters. In the first quarter of 2018, Gucci achieved nearly 1.9 billion euros in revenue. At this time, Gucci shouted its goal of 10 billion euros and was ambitious. The LV business is also very prosperous. Of the more than 15 billion euros in sales of the LVMH fashion leather goods department in 2017, the industry estimates that nearly 10 billion of them come from LV. The sky-high iPhone case in 2016, co-branded with Supreme in 2017, and found the Off-Withe founder to be the creative director of menswear in early 2018. LV also earned the attention of the fashion industry. Opponents have been so enthusiastic about the topic of ‘the battle of the industry leaders’. If the data is not published and Chanel will not continue to participate, Chanel’s status in the public mind may really decline. Chanel proved in a decent way that he was still the king. // However, who is the boss who compares one year’s sales with each other is biased. Who is better at designing and marketing? Has the industry landscape really changed significantly in recent years? Gucci, Dior, and LV are striving to become younger in different ways and lead the industry. Many brands have downplayed their historical heritage and moved closer to street, rock, and dark styles. Chanel and Hermès seem to be unmoved, and they attach more importance to maintaining their true qualities than catering to the market. They both sent out perfume product lines, doing activities and doing e-commerce to cater to young people. Chanel this time on the vibrato, sent a watch with a wider audience. But in the ace product lines of handbags and fashion, they did not choose the reincarnation change of Dior. Chanel still has a place in the eyes of the old-school rich, especially in Europe and the United States. Francis Gouten said that Chanel has maintained a consistent history and image since Coco Chanel. He believes that competitors such as LV or Gucci are the new darlings in the fashion industry and show strong positive creativity, which is exactly the shortcoming to make up for the lack of successful history. Sindy Liu, an ELLE contributor who lives in London and has been observing fashion business for a long time, expressed similar views. She believes that Chanel is still very creative, thinking about how to maintain a consistent brand image over the long term, rather than overly pleasing customers in certain markets or certain ages. Interestingly, Dana Thomas responded to our email and pointed out that the reason for publishing the data is likely to be that the Wertheimer brothers want to sell Chanel, and the rumor in Paris may be true. In this regard, we also left a question on the Chanel official website, but did not get a reply. Good performance can only prove that ‘will not be forced to sell because of operating difficulties’. Internationally, many companies that perform well are being acquired. /// Is Chanel likely to be sold ‘for other reasons’? Let’s look at feasibility first. Chanel has sales of nearly US $ 10 billion and net profit of nearly US $ 2 billion. If it is estimated based on the price-earnings ratios of LV and Cucci parent companies, then Chanel’s market value is between US $ 45 billion and US $ 55 billion. So, if you plan to buy Chanel, you have to prepare at least $ 50 billion. Chanel really wants to sell, who will take over? The most likely buyer in the rumor is the owner of LV, the owner of LVMH Group, Arnold. Anuo is like a gluttonous snake. From Dior, LVMH Group now has 70 brands. Over the past two decades, Arnold had planned to acquire Gucci and had bought more than 20% of Hermes shares. However, Arnold has not been accepted by the founding family of luxury brands, thinking that he is a barbarian outside the door of luxury goods, which is why the Pino family and Hermès resolutely resisted in the Gucci acquisition war. To the Wertheimer brothers, Arnold may not be ideal. French media have reported that Arnold met with the Wertheimer family, but Arnold himself publicly denied it in April of this year. Back then, Gucci chose the Pino family among top players-if Chanel really wants to get married, Kaiyun will also be a promising Lang Jun. Kering is striving to become a pure luxury company: Puma, a sports brand just spun off at the beginning of the year, sold StellaMcCartney and Christopher Kane back to the designer-and Chanel is clearly the top item in luxury. Kering is not as wealthy as LVMH Group, which is a difficult point. Of course, the possibility is discussed here. The two sides have not even heard of a scandal. We also think it is possible for Chanel to be sold. An important basis is that the Wertheimer brothers, who have been at the helm for more than four decades, have not yet clearly identified a successor. This also makes the outside world speculate that the next generation of Wertheimer’s family may no longer want to run the family business. Successors need to be cultivated, such as LVMH, Antoine Arnault and Delphine Arnault, a pair of children of Arnold, who have worked in the group for many years and have already joined the board of directors. There is also the Swatch Group, the watch kingdom controlled by the second generation of the Hayek family. The sister’s son Mark, the oldest grandson of Hayek, has already become the CEO of the high-end brands Blancpain, Breguet and Jaquero After years of training, I was well prepared for succession. The mysterious Wertheimer family, with the exception of the brothers Alain and Gérard, who are nearly seventy years old, can hardly find any news about their descendants’ participation in Chanel’s company. Chanel also announced a reorganization plan to centrally manage all of its companies: a London-based holding company that brings together all its businesses and employees in one place. If you want to sell, it makes sense to do so. It is also possible that, like Rolex, in the absence of future generations willing to take over, as a family fund custody of corporate assets, hire professional managers to look after the family business for the Wertheimer family. Chanel is young, e-commerce, and industry leader … these things were not very enthusiastic, and the trend of the times is so fierce, they are also making some changes that won’t hurt. The competition is so fierce that if Chanel has never appeared young and powerful leaders, the outside world will have more and more questions about ‘selling or not?’ Lu Xi’s interview with the headline signing author of the Department of Notes applies to join the readership group, please send your real name + detailed professional information + personal WeChat to [email protected]