Van Cleef & Arpels Qualifications For Imagination
Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, a series of complex functions that gave birth to VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, has insisted on providing only complex function modules for many years. However, this convention In the double jump, the time of the two places was broken for Van Cleef & Arpels. On the other hand, compared with Van Cleef & Arpels’s focus on design in the past, this time they clearly showed their thoughts on mechanical structure. Makes this movement special.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS fancy complication has long been one of the focal points expected by everyone in S.I.H.H., but we have never discussed it in this unit. The reason why such an interesting work has been ignored for a long time is mainly because we set this unit to focus on more basic and more developed movements. According to this standard, Van Cleef & Arpels’ complex functions It seems too unique; on the other hand, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and his Agenhor workshop that spawned a series of complex functions in their own hands have for many years insisted not to make the entire movement, only to provide complex function modules , The base is the use of ETA, FP universal movement, this point is also inconsistent with our direction of the entire native movement, is that although they have fun new works every year, but we always Severely cut love.
There are several reasons for choosing this dual-hop time movement this time. First of all it is a complete native movement. Wiederrecht’s convention of providing only modules was broken for Van Cleef & Arpels for the first time in 2012. The small dolls that they co-launched were the first complete movements made by Wiederrecht for many years. Although it shows the symbolic significance of this movement, on the other hand, it can also see how big Van Cleef & Arpels’ face is. In fact, after completing this movement, Wiederrecht once said that after going through this case, he found that making a whole movement is actually quite fun, and maybe because of this, he has this second native machine two years later. core. There is one more reason to decide to introduce this one. In addition to the complicated functions of time jump and reverse jump, this one has a lot of basic performance worth discussing, and even has the potential to develop into a basic movement, and these Many of the basic settings were proposed by Van Cleef & Arpels. Compared to the past, they only focused on design, and the mechanical structure was completely delivered to the cooperative manufacturers. This time, the brand clearly showed its thoughts on institutions. This makes this movement special and interesting.
Van Cleef & Arpels decided at the early stage of communication that this movement must be self-winding, and that it can operate all functions with a single crown. In order to fit the so-called ‘PA49’ Pierre Arpels case, the thickness must not be too thick. These have affected many key designs of the whole movement later. In fact, it is not difficult to guess that Van Cleef & Arpels has these requirements. The automatic winding is to match the usage habits of the main demographics (possibly women), which is troublesome for manual winding. The single crown and thinness are It is based on design considerations. Like these, we can see that they have shown more and more ideas on the link between pure design and professional watchmaking. Therefore, the development of Van Cleef & Arpels in the future still has a lot of imagination.
Mini automatic disk (1)
Let’s talk about basic specifications first. Automatic winding also needs to take into account the thin type. The most commonly used method is the micro-automatic disk (now adding a circular automatic disk). In order to solve the problem of insufficient efficiency of the micro-automatic winding, this one chose the Magic Lever-style two-way winding. It is interesting that he added a ‘Demi-Dent (‘ Demi-Dent ( French Half-Tooth (half-tooth) ‘is an independent part. It is also a lever that extends to the left and right, with a toothed claw on each left and right, and the middle section is movable and semi-fixed. When Magic Lever sends automatic transmission When the wheel is turned, the half teeth will also swing left and right.
Technical inspection data
● Cal. Heure d’ ici & Heure d’ ailleurs
● Automatic winding
● Jump time and reverse jump time between two places
● Diameter 36.40mm
● Thickness 5.65mm
● 35 stone
Shock frequency: 28,800vph
● Miniature automatic disk, two-way automatic winding, patented (pending) speed control system
Mini automatic disk (2)
The left and right claws of the half tooth often bite the automatic transmission wheel at one side. The purpose of this action is to fix the position of the transmission wheel, so that Magic Lever can definitely hook and ensure the winding efficiency. This part was not installed in the Sample at the time of the exhibition, so it is not visible in some of the pictures in this article. Automatic discs are rarely equipped with upper splints, which are clamped and fixed from the upper and lower sides. The reason for this is that they believe that the one-sided fixing of ball bearings is prone to accumulate dirt, so they chose the bilateral fixing of gemstone bearings. On the upper splint, Magic Lever can also be installed above the automatic tray (usually below).
Double jump and retrograde minute hand (1)
Next is the important double jump time + retrograde minute hand. The key to this display method is synchronization. The two jumping and reverse jumping actions must be done in one go. The core of the entire mechanism is a fan-shaped lever. This lever has a segment of gear teeth at the position corresponding to the ‘shaft’ when the fan is opened and closed. This segment of gear teeth is connected to the front side (back side) of the movement through the substrate. Erfan; there is also a small rack in the middle of the fan edge. This segment is connected to the minute hand wheel in the center of the movement. Basically the movement of the minute hand has been established here.
Double jump and retrograde minute hand (2)
There are two claws (four claws) at each end of the fan edge. Each pair of claws is responsible for controlling a group of jumping time display. A pair of left and right claws of a pair of pawls respectively abut a tooth of a jumping wheel, and the right paw is made into an elastic bow shape. With the second car driving the entire lever, the pressure of the right paw against the jumping wheel will gradually build up. At the same time, slowly slide out the edge of the gear teeth. When the two claws completely slide out, the reverse jumping mechanism will drive the entire lever to rebound. At this time, the two claws will simultaneously hook the jumping wheel and rotate one tooth to complete the jumping Action, and the pair of hooks at the other end also perform the same action at the same time. A series of actions are linked by the same fan-shaped lever, and there is no time difference.
Appearance and development
The movement board circuit is quite unique, some of which are designed by Van Cleef & Arpels based on aesthetic requirements, such as the star arrangement at the junction of the plywood. The balance wheel bridge is also very special. In addition to a total of three fixed points, the governor itself is also very rare. This is Wiederrecht’s patent-pending exclusive governor. At least four adjustments can be seen above. It can be determined that the plus and minus scales should be the fast and slow hands. Wiederrecht said that the torque of this movement is extremely strong, and the current mechanism actually uses only a small part. In other words, this movement will have more heavier decoration and even other functions in the future.
Pierre Arpels Heure d’ ici & Heure d’ ailleurs
18K white gold / Automatic movement / Dual jump time, retrograde minute display / Sapphire crystal, transparent bottom cover / Water resistance 30 meters / Diameter 42mm